Food, ReviewSophie FarrahApril 10, 2022Steven Edwards, Bingham Riverhouse, Tasting menu, River views, London river views, restaurant review, Restaurant river views

Steven Edwards at Bingham Riverhouse

Food, ReviewSophie FarrahApril 10, 2022Steven Edwards, Bingham Riverhouse, Tasting menu, River views, London river views, restaurant review, Restaurant river views

Richmond’s beautiful Bingham Riverhouse seems to go from strength to strength.

At the helm is owner and long-standing local Samantha Trinder, whose eye for design and knack for creating soothing environments is evident throughout. In recent years, she has introduced a members club, a schedule of diverse events and has transformed this beautiful boutique hotel into a stylish and dynamic riverside gem with beautiful bedrooms, pretty gardens and sun-drenched terraces all overlooking the ever-flowing Thames.

There is more creative talent to be found in the kitchen; MasterChef: The Professionals winner Steven Edwards. From April onwards, his AA Triple Rosette awarded restaurant - Steven Edwards at Bingham Riverhouse - will be opening from Monday-Saturday for both lunch and dinner, offering a new flexible tasting menu of 2-5 courses*, starting at just £40pp.

I visited on a Friday evening after a busy week, and stepping off the slightly hectic Petersham Road and crossing the Bingham’s threshold was like entering some kind of sanctuary. The light and airy restaurant is a calming space that makes the most of the picturesque and incredibly romantic river views; pleasing Penguin classics line the shelves, original artwork adorns the walls and small brass table lamps with swirling marbled shades add intimacy and style.

A glass of chilled organic Champagne ‘Drappier’ promptly arrived (via a truly fabulous fizz trolley) followed by ‘snacks’, although this does not do them justice. Said ‘snacks’ were small, perfectly crisp and properly Parmesan-y biscuits topped with onion seed cream cheese, and mini truffle mushroom doughnuts, presented beautifully on an tall ceramic platter. As first impressions go, well, it was love at first bite.

Next, another beautiful plate this time carrying two picture-perfect shiny bread rolls, but these were not just any bread rolls, oh no. These are an Edwards signature; warm, tantalisingly fragrant Marmite brioche buns, served with a vibrantly green salty seaweed butter. You’ll either love them or hate them, as is the way with Marmite, but in the case of Edwards’ brioche, it’s a cleverly subtle flavour. For the record, I absolutely loved them.

Already feeling incredibly satisfied, it was time for the five-course feast to commence, and if the ‘snacks’ were anything to go by, we were in for a treat.

Edwards doesn’t give away much on the menu, usually just a few enticing words per course. A wonderfully light, almost foamy leek and potato soup arrived first, complete with a delicious mouthful of potato skin covered in blue cheese and chives. Next, ‘Duck Egg’ - a rich, slow cooked duck egg yolk on a dollop of celeriac puree with pops of nasturtium, and a hay-filled pot of crispy soldiers on the side; Edwards’ nod to the joyful nostalgia of dippy eggs.

Another highlight was a piece of beautifully roasted sea bass, which offered both crispy skin and soft, flaky flesh, alongside chargrilled pieces of cauliflower and a silky Nyetimber and caviar sauce. It was feather light and tasted completely luxurious. The cheese course (£12 supplement) was a punchy Lincolnshire Poacher, elevated to the next taste bud tickling level by small chunks of sweet and sour pineapple, a wonderfully dense Guinness soda bread and a lively little caraway cracker.

Dessert was simply ‘rhubarb and vanilla’ – a perfect parfait with obscenely delicious stem ginger ice cream and a smattering of crunchy crumble for a pleasing texture.

The word ‘tasting menu’ can drive fear into the heart of some; they imagine fuss, formality and miniscule mouthfuls of foam-covered food. You will find none of that at Bingham Riverhouse; Edwards is a highly skilled, down-to-earth chef who has the ability to produce joyful, creative, delicious and unpretentious food, in the most scenic and serene setting imaginable. The combination of the two (Edwards and Bingham) achieves that lovely, elusive balance of feeling both laid back and luxurious.

When we had finally finished our five well-crafted courses (plus snacks), we felt deeply satisfied but not overly full. Service was friendly and efficient, and the food was well timed throughout; there was no rush, just plenty of time to take in those gorgeous river views, and savour every delicious mouthful.