Sam's Riverside
After running the incredibly popular Sam's Brasserie in Chiswick and Harrison's in Balham for an impressive 10 years, Sam Harrison needed a break. In 2015, the local restaurateur sold both sites, much to the despair of food loving locals, and disappeared down to the Cotswolds for some much-needed R & R, but it wasn’t long before the big smoke began to beckon once more, and thank goodness it did.
On paper, Sam’s newest venture, Sam’s Riverside, has everything going for it. As part of the new Riverside Studios redevelopment (Hammersmith’s historic arts venue), the restaurant is in prime position on the river, with gorgeous views of the Thames and across to the currently serene Hammersmith Bridge. The brand-new brasserie has been beautifully designed by DesignLSM – it’s all richly coloured leather seating and marble tabletops, industrial concrete pillars and snazzy tiles, combined with stunning Art Deco-inspired light fittings and gorgeous floral displays. It’s a perfect example of both style and comfort. There’s a large and very lovely bar, the main dining space with vast river facing windows, and an impressive private dining room running alongside, discreetly sectioned off by a steel framed glass wall.
We were greeted by Sam like old friends and made our way to a beautiful booth overlooking the restaurant and the river beyond. Water was promptly offered and then came some beautifully fresh radishes with cultured butter and plenty of salt, and a pot of deliciously warm, parmesan coated churros. So far, so good.
At the helm of the kitchen is Harvey Trollope, who has previously worked at the likes of The Ritz and Wheelers of St James. His menu is modern European, with a focus on Anglo-French dishes that are interesting but not overly challenging, and plenty of simple, fresh seafood. We decided to try the diver caught scallop ceviche whilst we deliberated on the rest, and they were quite simply sensational. Beautifully sweet and buttery soft, they came served in the shell with fresh (but not overpowering) flavours of lemon, coriander and fresh chili. I could have ordered more.
I wasn’t overwhelmed by the choice of starters; not feeling particularly meaty there were only two veg options, one of which was a rather unimaginative roasted butternut squash with goat’s curd. Having said that, the salt baked celeriac was heavenly. Perfectly soft and deliciously nutty, with a subtle and smooth hollandaise and crisp celery shavings. Never has the humble celeriac tasted more decadent. My date for the evening (my wonderful mother), opted for the clams, braised trotter and white beans, which was a hearty winter stew, beautifully seasoned and huge in both size and flavour.
Mains were equally delicious – the roast tronçon of brill was my idea of heaven; a chunky (if a little on the small side..) piece of perfectly cooked fish with crispy skin, covered in meaty little chanterelles, meunière butter and a rich and sticky chicken jus. Divine. Mum had the hake with crab bisque and Beluga lentils which was also very good – the hake was beautifully cooked, and the bisque was silky and rich, if a little heavy on the saffron. On the side we shared a plate of gorgeous grilled heritage carrots, purple sprouting broccoli and winter greens.
Believe it or not, we still had room for pudding and so I opted for the Queen of Puddings – which certainly lived up to its name. A heavenly mixture of soft, custardy baked breadcrumbs and sweet, spiced pear jam, with clouds of torched meringue on top; it is one of the lightest and most mouth-watering puddings I have ever had the pleasure of eating. Mum, rather sensibly, went for the fresh mango and coconut and lime sorbet, which was a beautifully fresh and flavoursome palate-cleansing pud.
Throughout the evening, the incredibly efficient and charming Holly plied us with all sorts of delicious wine – a chilled glass of Pommery to start (and maybe another to finish…), a full-bodied Provençal Viognier with the stew and a buttery South African Chardonnay with the fish. There was only one brief moment when the otherwise diligent service slipped due a mass influx of diners, but this went mostly unnoticed and instead we just sat back and enjoyed the buzz.
There’s something very special about a good neighbourhood restaurant; not a chain, but an independently owned place that provides good food and a welcoming atmosphere. They are few and far between these days, but Sam has nailed it – it’s the kind of place where you could put on a nice shirt and have a cocktail at the bar followed by a slap up sups on a special occasion, but equally you could pop in in jeans for a light supper mid-week. Whatever the reason for your visit, Sam has achieved the holy trinity of hospitality – he and his efficient and friendly team will welcome you like old friends, leaving you to sit back and enjoy the gorgeous décor and views, whilst feasting on fabulous food and booze. Sam, welcome back.
Sam’s Riverside, 1 Crisp Walk, W6 9DN samsriverside.co.uk. Review published on Essential Surrey & SW London
