Take Thyme
They say that good things come to those who wait.
If you missed out on a staycation in the summer scrum, the season of mists and mellow fruitfulness, and winter in all its crisp and cosy glory, provides an ideal opportunity for a restorative break, and I’ve discovered the perfect spot for a gastronomic getaway that is truly inspired by the seasons.
Thyme is described as a ‘village within a village’ and it is just that. Tucked away in the chocolate box Cotswolds village of Southrop - a picturesque hop, skip and a jump from the Big Smoke – Thyme is the product of one family’s passion for nature, food, and all that is good in life. It is a smattering of historic, honey-hued Cotswold buildings, lovingly restored and revived by founder and creative director Caryn Hibbert. Opened in 2014, they now contain 32 beautiful bedrooms and a handful of cottages, a stunning restaurant, serene spa, swimming pool and more, but all these bells and whistles play second fiddle to the real star of Thyme’s show; Mother Nature herself.
The glorious south-facing gardens that immediately surround the heart of the hotel have been designed by the award-winning Bunny Guinness, and beyond that are acres of wonderfully wild grounds to explore, including a well-kept farm, orchards, meadows and bountiful kitchen gardens, all set within a designated AONB (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty).
Bedrooms are inspired by their botanical names and are rich in pleasing patterns, sumptuous materials, antique pieces and not a piece of single use plastic in sight. We stayed in Cedar of Lebanon, named after the magnificent tree that it overlooks. This sensational master suite is the epitome of luxury, complete with a walk-in wardrobe, four-poster bed and the biggest bath tub that I have ever had the pleasure of bathing in, all with views of the cedar and sheep-dotted fields beyond. We promptly tucked into the freshly baked cheese straws and decanter of house made Old Fashioned that were there to welcome us, ran the bath and began to speculate about dinner.
Food is at the heart of this special Cotswolds spot; Charlie Hibbert has been at the culinary helm since 2018. Yes, this is his family home but no, it is not a case of nepotism that has brought him here; having trained with the great Darina Allen (at Ballymaloe in East Cork) and the inimitable Jeremy Lee (at Quo Vadis in Soho), Hibbert has some serious skill, but mostly it is his palpable passion for the land that makes his food just so enjoyable. The 62-seater Ox Barn restaurant is a stunning example of agricultural architecture, where old and new combine in stylish harmony. It’s a large, open plan space, but a roaring fireplace and open kitchen ensure that it feels cosy and atmospheric.
The menu is modern, seasonal and British and completely led by the farm, herb and vegetable gardens. Dishes are creative but not overly complicated; sat amongst an abundance of freshly cut flowers, we nibbled on pea, mint and ricotta crostini and flavour-packed marinated peppers with capers and anchovies. I thought I had died and gone to heaven via the tomato tonnato, and the pave (the French word for paving stones, in this case made from potato) with girolles, runner beans and goat’s curd was deeply satisfying; a clever and delicious medley of fresh flavours and textures. For pudding, a nostalgia-inducing Coupe Denmark; essentially a sophisticated sundae, made with vanilla ice cream, whipped cream and dark molten chocolate. Wonderfully simple, but oh so deliciously effective.
After dinner, we sat outside by a sleek polished stone fire bowl and gazed at the stars with a rather aptly named cocktail, ‘Take Thyme’ – a heady mix of Sapling vodka (a premium British vodka brand that plants a tree for every bottle bought), Lillet Blanc, plum sake and fresh thyme. Heaven.
Aside from his obvious skill, the secret to Hibbert’s success also lies in his careful choice of the very best ingredients; obviously there is the array of fresh seasonal produce from the Thyme kitchen gardens, herb beds, orchards and farm to play with, but he also wields the delicious delights of Neal’s Yard Dairy, SaltPig Curing, Wright Brothers and more. Sustainable fish, grass-fed meat and British-produced cheese feature heavily, but vegetarians and vegans would be equally delighted. Several impressive sustainability boxes are ticked too; prep and plate waste is sent for anaerobic digestion where it is converted into fertiliser, and for the past four years Thyme has maintained the highest rating of 3 stars with The Sustainable Restaurant Association. It’s also a member of The Slow Food Movement, and supporters of the Free Range Dairy Pasture Promise campaign.
Breakfast is another gastronomic affair; yes, there is homemade granola, freshly baked pastries and eggs however you like them, but there is also the likes of grilled courgettes with goat’s curd, fried egg and lardo...
After you’ve feasted on nature’s bounty, you can explore the grounds (smart bicycles, wellies and beautifully illustrated maps are provided), play tennis or swim in the state-of-the-art spring water swimming pool. There’s also the serene Meadow Spa, a cookery school and a boutique shop stocked with all manner of beautiful things. Alternatively, you could just head to the Baa bar – named after its now iconic ‘sheep seats’ – for another delicious cocktail made with homemade cordials, shrubs and infusions, garnished with fresh flowers and herbs from the garden.
The team are beyond charming – helpful, professional, knowledgeable and happy to facilitate you to do as much or as little as you please; Thyme has created completely beautiful environments for doing both. Whatever you choose, take your time (or should I say, thyme?) – slow down and enjoy every marvellous mouthful and magical moment that this nature-filled spot has to offer.
Rooms start at £285 (midweek). Visit thyme.co.uk to book.
Published October 2021 on Essential Surrey & SW London
And in November 2021 issues of The Richmond and Barnes Magazines, The Guildford, Farnham and Woking Magazines, The Elmbridge and Kingston Magazines, The Windsor, Maidenhead & Ascot Magazine (Sheengate Publishing)
