Hotel Tresanton

Just before the lockdown shutters came crashing down (for the first time, that is), I was lucky enough to squeeze in a stay at south Cornwall’s Hotel Tresanton .

Balanced on the top of Cornwall’s stunning Roseland Peninsula in the picturesque seaside town of St Mawes, Tresanton is one of Olga Polizzi’s two (soon to be three) oh-so-stylish 5 star holiday hotspots. I had long admired photographs of the hotel online and in design-centric magazines; the cool, breezy interiors, the panoramic sea views and the chic beach club with its neat striped parasols cut into the rocks beneath sprawling tropical gardens - all so redolent all of the Amalfi coast. To my delight, when we pulled up in the car, it was even better in the flesh, even in January.

Formerly a yacht club, Tresanton oozes a relaxed, Mediterranean style. As the hotel itself puts it; “there is no ‘muzak’ whatsoever, only the sound of the waves and the occasional sea shanty’ which is my idea of bliss. See you later noisy London flat. Spread over five well-designed houses, there are 30 sumptuous, unique rooms and characterful suites to choose from, many with their own verdant terrace and views of the sea.

We were spoilt rotten and shown to the Forte Suite; the hotel’s palatial and completely stunning 39sq m master, which boasts sea views galore, a super king-size bed, a separate sitting room with wood-burning stove, and not one, but two private terraces. Polizzi’s interior design is second to none; from the opulent gold palm tree lamps (which I contemplated stealing) and brightly coloured quilts in the bedroom, to the stone shell wall lights and perfectly (but not too perfectly) stocked bookshelves. It’s incredibly luxurious but also ridiculously comfortable; painfully stylish but reassuringly homely. We kicked off our shoes and ordered a gin and tonic.

St Mawes is undeniably charming; there is something of a bygone era - a comforting, slower pace. The smell of fresh pasties wafts from the little bakery on the harbour and the Falmouth ferry reliably chugs in and out. It’s Swallows and Amazons meets seriously moneyed second home owners.

There are several stylish businesses to peruse (including delectable deli, Mr Scorse), but the villages’ finest features are undoubtedly its natural ones; the sea is all around, bobbing with boats, framed by lush green headland neatly topped by St Anthony's Lighthouse. Then there is St Mawes Castle (less than a 5 minute walk from the hotel), and if you follow the coastal path for around an hour, you’ll arrive at the picture-perfect, Grade I listed church at St Just-in-Roseland, which Sir John Betjeman once described as ‘the most beautiful churchyard on earth’. He was right.

Back at the hotel we were treated to a stunning sunset – with a glass of fizz in hand we watched the seagulls swooping and then a seal frolicking in the golden waves. After pinching ourselves a few times, we trotted over to Tresanton’s main building, following a winding trail through well-kept gardens, up-lit palms and candlelit hurricane lamps that seemed to have magically appeared. We found ourselves in the beautiful drawing room, filled with antique furniture, an eclectic mix of sculpture and paintings and vases of vast camelia branches laden with flowers, and sunk into a squishy sofa to peruse the evening’s menu.

The restaurant, much like the rest of the hotel, is splendid. Tiled mosaic floors, all whites and blues, add Grecian glamour, whilst undulating banquettes mimic the shapes of the waves beyond. In the summer, the terrace barbecues are legendary. From our table we watched the moonlight ripple in the waves and the occasional flash of the lighthouse from across the bay, whilst feasting on the likes of wild native oysters, hand dived scallops with clams, a stunning crab tian, a fabulous fish pie and more. The service was friendly and - much like the food - faultless.

The following morning, we decided, based on the staggering beauty of the suite, to order room service. I hate to miss a breakfast ‘buffet’ and all the excessiveness it excuses, but I need not have worried - the charming receptionist suggested that they supply breakfast to our room in courses. Yes - courses. I was beyond delighted with this decadent proposal, and that is Tresanton to a tee – nothing, really, is too much trouble.

And so; coffee, homemade granola, fresh fruit and pastries were served on the top terrace of our suite, as we watched the ferry make its first journey of the day. I then soaked in a bath filled with the provided Cornish bath salts, before flicking through the papers in my monogrammed Tresanton towelling robe - the entire hotel is a masterclass in attention to detail. Before long, two plates of heavenly smoked salmon and scrambled eggs arrived, which we enjoyed in our living room whilst the sea breeze floated in through the French doors, naturally.

Another sunny walk along the beach followed, before a trip on the ferry to Falmouth and a visit to the town’s impressively modern Maritime Museum. We returned to Tresanton and indulged in a gorgeous Cornish cream tea (it’s jam first in these parts) and then spent the afternoon soaking up the sea views. Before long, the car magically reappeared and we hopped in to reluctantly head home – no stress-filled airport security, no dreary departure lounge and no claustrophobic flight. With international travel not the most viable option this summer, there is no doubt that Tresanton is the next best thing to Mediterranean bliss; in fact in my opinion - it’s better.