Starling Bistro

It makes sense that chef Nick Beardshaw has chosen Esher High Street as the location for his hotly anticipated debut restaurant - it’s his hometown.

Having worked alongside Tom Kerridge for 14 years, Beardshaw’s menu is as you’d expect: creative, refined, and filled with skill and technique. Starling’s opening menu also celebrates the chef’s recent BBC Great British Menu success; it includes his winning fish starter ‘A Moon Shaped Pool’ and his Banksy-inspired ‘Balloon Girl’ dessert. But would it be a case of style of substance?

With an ice cold martini in hand (made with @hamptoncourtgin’s excellent Lord of Misrule), I cast my eye over what was on offer. The snack section alone offers up sophisticated temptations such steak tartare hash brown with black garlic; hog roast fritters with apple ketchup; and truffle cheese crumpets. Already, I envied the people of Esher...

Continued here. Published October 2024 on Essential Surrey & SW London