Bedruthan
Clifftop hot tubs, a sensory spa garden and breathtaking sea views at every turn? Yes please. Overlooking Mawgan Porth Beach in North Cornwall, Bedruthan is a serene, scandi-inspired spot that offers a welcome retreat from the modern world.
I arrived to what can only be described as mizzle; a term commonly used in Cornwall to define a mixture of fine drizzle and thick, saturating mist. While it may have been grey outside, stepping into Bedruthan’s kaleidoscopic colour was instantly uplifting. The spacious but cosy communal areas are filled with squishy sofas in vibrant hues, beautifully contrasted by the calming, muted tones of the vast sandy beach and wild, frothy sea visible through every floor-to-ceiling window.
I was to try the Wanderlust Package, a new adults-only break which gives guests the opportunity to experience both Bedruthan and its neighbouring sister hotel, Scarlet. Unlike the lively shades found elsewhere in the hotel, my simple, Scandi-inspired bedroom was far more stripped back and instantly serene, with white walls, crisp sheets, natural wood, an undulating cork headboard and yet more breath-taking views across the beach, grassy headland and out to the open sea, almost too beautiful to take in. A glass panel between the bathroom and bedroom means that even in the shower you can still enjoy the panoramic views of crashing waves and dogs playing in the sand.
As much as I could have happily spent hours gazing out over the clifftops from bed (or the bathroom), I had not one, but two spas to discover. As well as offering the best of both worlds, or in this case hotels, the Wanderlust package includes a 30-minute clifftop hot tub experience at Bedruthan’s adults-only sister hotel, Scarlet, so I decided to make the five-minute downhill amble and spend my afternoon there.
In terms of modern design, I am not sure there are many places that can compete with the stunning, heavenly scented Scarlet spa. Whilst doing a few gentle laps of the sleek indoor swimming pool, which is cleansed with low-dosage bromine, I was once again lost in vast sea and sky vistas that engulfed me through towering windows.
Ayurveda-inspired treatments take place in tented, lantern-lit rooms, and elsewhere there’s a steam room and a large, airy, laid-back lounge with plenty of beds, bean bags and hanging pods for all, overlooking the swaying reeds of the outdoor natural swimming pool and the crashing waves of the Atlantic beyond. Also outside are the hotel’s two iconic clifftop hot tubs and a brilliant barrel-shaped cedar wood sauna, which offers yet more gorgeous sea views through two porthole-style windows.
The spa is manned by a warm, conscientious and incredibly efficient team who effortlessly ensure that everything runs like clockwork. Fresh towels, cosy robes and eco-friendly felt slippers are in generous supply, and there’s no need to wear a watch or check your phone; if you’re booked for a treatment, a member of the team will simply come and find you when the time is right.
After enjoying all that the spa has to offer (I even braved a dip in the outdoor pool, which was an incredibly invigorating 9 degrees when I visited…), I was whisked off for my hot tub session. A glass of chilled Prosecco promptly arrived, and I spent the next 30 minutes pinching myself as a rare January sunset set the sky alight in a blaze of pinks and oranges, as I watched on in awe from the soothing warmth of the tub, listening to the gulls chatting and the waves crashing.
In the evening, Wanderlust guests are invited for a seven-course dinner with wine flight at Scarlet on one night, and a three-course dinner at Bedruthan on the other. The restaurant at the latter is called The Herring, and both the food and interiors are an utter delight. When darkness falls, the sea views fade to black but cosy curtains create a feeling of intimacy amongst the restaurant’s stylish Scandi-style interiors.
The menu is a small, sophisticated and meticulously crafted affair of locally sourced, seasonal dishes that changes almost daily; the starter was a selection of beautifully presented and absolutely delicious canapés, ranging from wild venison salami to whiskey and black treacle cured sea trout, and heavenly little mouthfuls of sweet potato with jalapeno cream cheese (I overheard two tables asking for the recipe for these). There’s a choice of three mains; the roasted monkfish with tikka sauce, pickled red onion and charred cauliflower burst with warmth and colour, much like the hotel itself. Pudding was just as delicious - a warm buckwheat waffle, banana jam and sour cream - and the wine pairing, a very reasonable £30 per person, was perfect and expertly presented.
With various wellbeing classes on offer, I started the next day with a deeply relaxing yin yoga session overlooking swaying coastal grasses and the white sandy beach below. Talk about Zen. This was followed by one of the most impressive hotel breakfasts I’ve ever had the pleasure of eating, complete with an ingenious waffle maker and a staggering choice of toppings.
Swimming gear back on, I headed for the spa once more, but this time at Bedruthan. Cared for by the same family for over 60 years, the hotel was built in the 50s and some of its corridors still echo the era. Some of the interiors have the feeling of an easy-going holiday camp, interspersed with contemporary art and colourful pieces of Scandinavian design. There’s a sense that over time it has been modernised bit by bit, and the pleasingly purple spa certainly feels new. There’s plenty to choose from; a large indoor swimming pool, eucalyptus steam room, caldarium, sauna, and a huge hydro pool that overlooks the ocean. The spa space is wonderfully warm, with soft contemporary lighting, an impressive fireplace, huge bifold doors and a wraparound balcony for warmer days.
Just when I thought nothing could top my clifftop hot tub, it was time for a trip to Bedruthan’s Sensory Spa Garden. Billed as a back-to-nature spa experience with sea air, it is part Nordic thermal therapy, part Cornish coastal wellbeing.
Taking place in a thoughtfully designed beautifully planted garden tucked away next to the hotel’s outdoor pools, the 60-minute session involves fragrant scrubs, a sea view sauna, freezing cold plunge buckets, hot tubs and more. There are seven different stages all at different temperatures, and I loved every single one. To complete the journey, a mug of herbal tea (prepared in a Robinson Crusoe-style outdoor kitchen) magically appeared, whilst I soaked my feet by a crackling fire pit. It was heavenly, and one of the most nourishing and invigorating hours I’ve ever spent.
With my batteries well and truly recharged, it was time to tear myself away and make the journey back to the Big Smoke. Before leaving I poked my nose into the hotel’s unassuming but brilliant little shop and picked up a few products from its own all-natural beauty range (found in the rooms and both spas), hopeful that their distinctive smell might help me recreate the soothing sensation of being here when I got home.
My stay at Bedruthan was the epitome of restorative and not just thanks to spa; the hotel has a uniquely Cornish energy to it. It is nurturing yet playful, efficient but doesn’t take itself too seriously, and of course the wild, natural landscape and almost constant sea views are both inspiring and idyllic. In this day and age of vast resorts and faceless chains, it’s rare to find a hotel with real soul, but Bedruthan has it in bucketloads.
Rates at Bedruthan start from £165 on a B&B basis. Wanderlust package starts at £680, based on two adults sharing a non-sea view room (adults only, 2-night minimum, available Sunday to Friday) bedruthan.com
Review published February 2022 on Essential Surrey & SW London and May 2022 on Bedruthan’s online Journal.
